Or, if your Cajun is a little
rusty, “let the good times roll!” This phrase captures the joie de vivre, or
joy of living, carefree attitude characterizing the culture of New Orleans.
Known as Nollins or Nawlins, NOLA, The Crescent City, The Big Easy, The City
that Care Forgot, and Mardi Gras City, New Orleans is truly unique.
I
had the great pleasure of visiting NOLA this past spring. Whether your interest
lies with cuisine, music, history, folklore, nature, art and architecture, or
vice, there is something for everyone in New Orleans. The number of attractions
and pastimes is almost overwhelming; I spent a week in New Orleans and only saw
a fraction of what the city has to offer. Luckily, NOLA is such a popular
tourist destination that there are lots of guidebooks and websites to help you
plan your trip.
Firstly,
I advise that you prepare yourself for a culture shock. The culture of NOLA is
a very far cry from our New England Puritan roots. Massachusetts was settled by
English colonists, while Louisiana was largely settled by the French and
Spanish. New Orleans has historically had its own unique Creole dialect, and
even as recent as 50 years ago, there were lifelong residents who exclusively
spoke French. In addition, New Orleans is influenced by Southern hospitality culture
and the slower pace of life necessitated by a hot climate.
The daily rhythm of
the city was a shock to this New Englander: the middle of the day is so hot
that few people venture outside until the sun starts to set, and then the city
comes alive. NOLA is known for its vibrant nightlife, and as a result, many
business are open late and do not even open until 10:00 am or later. Mind you,
I was visiting in May, and while the weather was sunny, in the 80s, and quite
humid, I was assured by every native local I met that New Orleans was actually
cool and pleasant compared to the temperatures and humidity levels of August
and September. As a Northerner, I advise visiting in early- or mid-spring.
As I said, there are
many resources available for tourists, but I’ll discuss the guidebooks I found
most helpful. I’m not the sort of traveler who likes to account for every
minute of time in a rigid itinerary, but rather I identify some things I’d like
to see and do at some point, and let the journey take me from there; I didn’t
start looking at guidebooks until a week before departure, and didn’t plan in
earnest until I was at the airport. Even so, I had a full and rewarding trip.
I recommend “New
Orleans: a Lonely Planet City Guide” as a general guide. It offers detailed
maps of sections of the city with points of interest, and is a good way to help
get your bearings and learn about the city in broad strokes. I used it daily to
plot my route. “Discovering Vintage New Orleans” by Bonnye E. Stuart was hands
down the book I found most valuable for finding unique attractions, including
the Beauregard-Keyes House and the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum in the French
Quarter, the Southern Food & Beverage Museum and Museum of the
American Cocktail in Central City, Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 and Commander’s
Palace restaurant in the Garden District, and the Camellia Grill in Audubon.
Another
great resource for finding out-of-the way attractions is “New Orleans: The
Underground Guide” by Michael Patrick Welch with Brian Boyles. While this book
does cover sites in the more touristy areas of the city, it is perfect for the
traveler who wants to get out into other neighborhoods and live like a local.
If you
know you want to focus your visit around music or food, pick up copies of “Hear
Dat New Orleans” and “Eat Dat New Orleans.” Two words for music fans to
remember: French Street. I heard three different genres of music in a single
evening, and only paid a cover charge to see Kermit Ruffins, a jazz musician
being hailed as the new Louis Armstrong. Speaking of jazz, I didn’t actually
like jazz before my trip. New Orleans taught me there are many varieties of
jazz, and the music is alive and growing. If you’re not a jazz fan, give it a
try in New Orleans: you just might be surprised.
No matter
what you decide to do in NOLA, there are a few practicalities to keep in mind. NOLA
hosts many festivals year round, and can be fantastic free, authentic New
Orleans entertainment. Be aware that there are a high number of muggings in
NOLA, so plan accordingly. Don’t pay for anything in NOLA without looking for
coupons online first – there are TONS.
Also, you
can’t visit NOLA without being conscious of Hurricane Katrina. The city was
forever changed by that disaster, and tensions still run high around Katrina
and the aftermath. Many buildings were never rebuilt or repaired, and outside
of the French Quarter, vacant buildings (including vacant skyscrapers and malls)
are a common sight.
There’s no way I can
capture in a single article the vibrant spirit and unique mixing of cultures of
New Orleans and its people. Regardless of which name you call it, the city is a
truly special, indomitable place.
